Scanning my fellow San José del Cabo passengers in the boarding area, most if not all appeared to fall into one of two groups: retired couples, or members of a bachelor party. This wasn’t surprising based on a little Google research before the trip; the right-hand snippet on the search engine’s results page explains, “San José del Cabo is a resort city on the southern tip of Mexico’s Baja California peninsula. It’s known for its sandy beaches and colonial buildings.”

The unusually wet and cloudy weather in Atlanta had me pining for a break from the seemingly endless winter, and a mountain bike trip to Rancho Cacachilas in Baja seemed like just the ticket. The website describes Rancho Cacachilas as an adventure resort, and photos of the crystal blue pool beneath cloudless skies certainly fit my American notion of a resort vacation in Mexico.

Yet as it turns out, Rancho Cacachilas is the anti-resort of Baja, a place where guests don’t just come to play outdoors, but also to learn about sustainable living and to immerse themselves in rural Mexican culture. Instead of water slides and swim-up bars, Rancho Cacachilas has miles and miles of world-class trails for biking and a working ranch where guests can get their hands dirty.

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